David Brill
Halong Bay is a haven of spectacular natural beauty – once you run the tourist gauntlet to get there. David Brill seeks out the tranquility at the end of the conveyor belt.
The clues, in hindsight, were there from the start. Bundled from one minibus to another at 8 a.m., trying desperately to keep track of our luggage as it piled up on the sidewalk, it was clear that this trip was not going to be relaxing. We eventually squeezed into uncomfortable seats to be reassured by our unfailingly cheerful tour guide, over the death throes of the air conditioning system, that we were just a short trip away from one of the most beautiful places on earth. Suitcases loaded, we set off – joining an ever-lengthening convoy of vehicles on the bumpy pilgrimage to paradise.
This is the road to Halong Bay, where travelers flee the chaotic streets of Hanoi in search of the moped-free serenity of a cruise junk. One of Vietnam’s top attractions, the bay draws locals and tourists alike in their thousands all year round. In 1994 the area was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site – offering an extra level of attraction for the box-ticking Lonely Planet followers.
For most travelers, the experience begins at the hotels and high-street tour operators of Hanoi, where a disorientating selection of cruise packages is on offer to those who can successfully navigate a path through the traffic. Boats range from the basic to the seriously luxurious, and neither families nor students will find themselves short of choices. US$15 should cover a budget day trip, while 3-day, 2-night cruises start at around US$80 and extend anywhere up to US$600 for a deluxe double room at the top end of the scale.
The journey from Hanoi lasts around 4 and a half hours, complete with toilet stops at custom-built tourist traps. Weary-looking backpackers wander through aisles of paintings, wood carvings and conical hats, before rejecting it all in favor of an ice cream and a bottle of water. Many simply sit outside – eager to re-board the bus and reach the utopia they have been promised.
The prospects of relaxation and tranquility seem even more distant upon finally disgorging from the bus in the midday sun of Halong City. Tourists mill around in their hundreds, awaiting directions from their guides, who scurry frantically from office to boat and back, clutching papers, passports and money. Hawkers work their way through the increasingly restless crowd, selling t-shirts and hats to those who missed the earlier opportunity to buy them. Eventually the guides return to disperse the group, leading their followers into the armada of junks floating patiently in the harbor. Other boats lie further offshore, and some passengers must take a choppy connecting ride before finally putting their suitcases to rest.
For passengers on the luxury cruises, the tranquility of Halong Bay presumably begins as they step on board to be welcomed with a glass of champagne and a porter to carry their luggage. Those of us on the lesser boats had to wait a little longer, as we tucked into a disappointing lunch still moored against the backdrop of hotels and traffic. Our tour guide informed us that we had arrived and would shortly be free to relax, just as soon as we had visited a cave, gone kayaking, and explored a floating village. Definitions of paradise vary, but I had not expected it to run to such tight schedules.
It took some time yet to find the real Halong Bay, but there were no regrets upon arrival. As the boats escape the clutches of the harbor, it quickly becomes obvious why it draws so many visitors. A maze of limestone islands – some 1,600 in all – rises up from the sea, lining the horizon in every direction. Some are faceless, rocky outcrops, offering a surreal feeling of desolation, while others are overgrown with vibrant greenery that extends right down to the water. All shapes and sizes are present – from those resembling ancient volcanoes, to those no bigger than boulders poking their heads above water. One pair of miniature islands even appears locked in a stand-off, and is known either as the Fighting Roosters or the Kissing Rocks, depending on one’s romantic perspective.
The personal highlight of Halong Bay was to simply unwind and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. There are, however, several activities available for those seeking a distraction from the sunbathing. The caves were impressive, and there are many others to be explored if time allows. Kayaking is also enjoyable, offering the chance to find your own, quieter alcove if you have the inclination to paddle away from the crowd. Some islands have beaches – although a longer cruise may be required to reach those which can claim to be secluded – while swimming off the boat is also an excellent option when anchors are dropped for the night (a running jump from the top deck is highly recommended for those in a hurry to cool off).
For all its nooks and crannies, however, there are few places to hide in Halong Bay. The junks spread out as they leave the port, but the sheer weight of numbers ensures that they are never far apart. Moor up too close at night and you may even have trouble sleeping over the blare of music from next door. Add to this the regular appearance of small boats selling snacks, drinks and other tourist-friendly goodies, and you’ll begin to realize just how beaten the track really is.
Our overnight cruise ended in much the same spirit as it had begun: rushed off in a hurry as the cabin crew scrambled to prepare for the arrival of the next guests. Even the consolation hope of avoiding another disappointing meal proved unfounded, as we were herded into a restaurant at the harbor for a mass-produced set lunch, before embarking on the sweat-inducing return to Hanoi.
In spite of the prepackaged nature of the pilgrimage, I was left wishing that our trip had been longer. Halong Bay is spectacular, and truly deserving of its UNESCO acclaim, but it can scarcely be enjoyed in a whirlwind 24 hours. Take an extra day or two, explore the islands, and you should begin to shake the feeling that you’re doing the exact same thing as everyone else. Venture far enough from the mainland, and you might even find that tranquility you had hoped for.
This is the road to Halong Bay, where travelers flee the chaotic streets of Hanoi in search of the moped-free serenity of a cruise junk. One of Vietnam’s top attractions, the bay draws locals and tourists alike in their thousands all year round. In 1994 the area was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site – offering an extra level of attraction for the box-ticking Lonely Planet followers.
For most travelers, the experience begins at the hotels and high-street tour operators of Hanoi, where a disorientating selection of cruise packages is on offer to those who can successfully navigate a path through the traffic. Boats range from the basic to the seriously luxurious, and neither families nor students will find themselves short of choices. US$15 should cover a budget day trip, while 3-day, 2-night cruises start at around US$80 and extend anywhere up to US$600 for a deluxe double room at the top end of the scale.
The journey from Hanoi lasts around 4 and a half hours, complete with toilet stops at custom-built tourist traps. Weary-looking backpackers wander through aisles of paintings, wood carvings and conical hats, before rejecting it all in favor of an ice cream and a bottle of water. Many simply sit outside – eager to re-board the bus and reach the utopia they have been promised.
The prospects of relaxation and tranquility seem even more distant upon finally disgorging from the bus in the midday sun of Halong City. Tourists mill around in their hundreds, awaiting directions from their guides, who scurry frantically from office to boat and back, clutching papers, passports and money. Hawkers work their way through the increasingly restless crowd, selling t-shirts and hats to those who missed the earlier opportunity to buy them. Eventually the guides return to disperse the group, leading their followers into the armada of junks floating patiently in the harbor. Other boats lie further offshore, and some passengers must take a choppy connecting ride before finally putting their suitcases to rest.
For passengers on the luxury cruises, the tranquility of Halong Bay presumably begins as they step on board to be welcomed with a glass of champagne and a porter to carry their luggage. Those of us on the lesser boats had to wait a little longer, as we tucked into a disappointing lunch still moored against the backdrop of hotels and traffic. Our tour guide informed us that we had arrived and would shortly be free to relax, just as soon as we had visited a cave, gone kayaking, and explored a floating village. Definitions of paradise vary, but I had not expected it to run to such tight schedules.
It took some time yet to find the real Halong Bay, but there were no regrets upon arrival. As the boats escape the clutches of the harbor, it quickly becomes obvious why it draws so many visitors. A maze of limestone islands – some 1,600 in all – rises up from the sea, lining the horizon in every direction. Some are faceless, rocky outcrops, offering a surreal feeling of desolation, while others are overgrown with vibrant greenery that extends right down to the water. All shapes and sizes are present – from those resembling ancient volcanoes, to those no bigger than boulders poking their heads above water. One pair of miniature islands even appears locked in a stand-off, and is known either as the Fighting Roosters or the Kissing Rocks, depending on one’s romantic perspective.
The personal highlight of Halong Bay was to simply unwind and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. There are, however, several activities available for those seeking a distraction from the sunbathing. The caves were impressive, and there are many others to be explored if time allows. Kayaking is also enjoyable, offering the chance to find your own, quieter alcove if you have the inclination to paddle away from the crowd. Some islands have beaches – although a longer cruise may be required to reach those which can claim to be secluded – while swimming off the boat is also an excellent option when anchors are dropped for the night (a running jump from the top deck is highly recommended for those in a hurry to cool off).
For all its nooks and crannies, however, there are few places to hide in Halong Bay. The junks spread out as they leave the port, but the sheer weight of numbers ensures that they are never far apart. Moor up too close at night and you may even have trouble sleeping over the blare of music from next door. Add to this the regular appearance of small boats selling snacks, drinks and other tourist-friendly goodies, and you’ll begin to realize just how beaten the track really is.
Our overnight cruise ended in much the same spirit as it had begun: rushed off in a hurry as the cabin crew scrambled to prepare for the arrival of the next guests. Even the consolation hope of avoiding another disappointing meal proved unfounded, as we were herded into a restaurant at the harbor for a mass-produced set lunch, before embarking on the sweat-inducing return to Hanoi.
In spite of the prepackaged nature of the pilgrimage, I was left wishing that our trip had been longer. Halong Bay is spectacular, and truly deserving of its UNESCO acclaim, but it can scarcely be enjoyed in a whirlwind 24 hours. Take an extra day or two, explore the islands, and you should begin to shake the feeling that you’re doing the exact same thing as everyone else. Venture far enough from the mainland, and you might even find that tranquility you had hoped for.
No comments:
Post a Comment